“Back in high school, three of my friends had a short-lived band called The Tacos. Their only song was “Tacos from Hell.” I forget the verses, but the chorus went like this: “We ain’t no burritos/Nachos or fajitas/All we are is some meat in a shell/Prepare to eat a taco from hell.” Immaturity aside, the song confirms Arellano’s main point: Mexican food and “Mexican” food are now as quintessentially American as teenagers who start rock bands. And no matter what the song says, tacos are clearly from heaven.”